Flexible copper pipe ok to use?
In one of my previous threads here, I was curious about the ins and outs of installing a new tankless heater. While at Lowes today, I spotted what they call flexible copper pipe. While the pipe is indeed flexible, it takes a considerable amount of force to bend it as you would wish. My question is, would this flexible copper pipe be ok to use for the new tankless install? The average water pressure at my home is 100psi. While yes that is high, I would not label it excessive. The specs on the heater indicate it can accept up to 150psi on the inlet. Opinions on this pipe? What you are referring to is soft copper. It is usually type L and can be used at will. Any bending beyond very broad curves should be assisted by a bending tool, because kinks are potential weak spots. 100 psi is way to high for pressure inside a dwelling. Most codes allow 80 max and something 70 of less is usually normal. 100PSI will cause flaky operation of toilet fill valves, etc. and your washing machine hose are just a disaster waiting to happen. You need to fix this. I am not sure what you are refering to. There is the soft copper tube(pipe) that 594tough mentioned. It comes in rolls. And there are flexible water heater connectors that come in various lengths (ie 18). They are corrugated and some can be soldered to copper tube and some thread onto pipe. Most codes allow either. In some areas, people look at the flexible connectors and think they are very unprofessional and in other areas they are the standard method for installation. You may not use the connectors or the soft tube on the pressure temperature relief valve piping. Thanks for the info. I probably should have added in my original post that the existing water heater is the same one that was there when I first purchased the place. It does not have any flexible pipe running to it, thus I was originally thinking I'd have to get a hacksaw, some precise measuring tools and a blow torch to solder the pipe. Once I found out about flexible pipe though, much of my concern was eased. The 100psi, yes, that is a lot however I am thankful that the previous owner had a professional plumber come in and install control valve so I can easily reduce the flow rate down to whatever psi is safe. Now 594, as you said, most homes want to keep the psi well below 70-80 right? You make a good point about the wash machine hoses and such. I believe one easy solution to this is to simply turn my water meter valve about 10-15 degrees toward the off position until the pressure is within a more acceptable range. Your easy sloution will not work. When you are not using very much water, your pressure will still be 100psi. It sounds like the plumber installed a presure reducing valve (aka regulator). They typically have a funny dome shaped cover with a screw sticking out the top. This is were the pressure can be adjusted. Turning this screw counterclockwise reduces the pressure (it may have a locknut on the screw which must be loosened to make any adjustments). Phil, No, it is not a pressure reducing valve installed on the cold water inlet, simply a knob you twist clockwise to shut off or vice versa to open. Similar to what you'd find on a garden hose spigot. From what I'm understanding though that I had not thought of is that you're correct, when water is not flowing the pressure will build up to 100psi in all the pipes. The best solution would seem to be to get that valve installed immediately after the water meter, correct? There is not much space to work where my meter is located. Although I can purchase these pressure reducing valves at Home Depot or such, I think I may need someone to come in do it for me.
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